Reykjavik, Still

I´m still here in Reykjavik, although in a different apartment. I spent a couple of nights with a CouchSurfing host, Setta. One night was with some friends who took me for beers and Thai food (my first Icelandic restaurant experience!), and another night in one of the last squats in Iceland with a couple of people from the radical community here. Although most people here are political, and are free to talk about whatever they want. I feel as though America is a place to be paranoid, and even the mention of being an Anarchist can be dangerous. Here, all of the cops know all of the Anarchists and radicals and there isn´t much problem. No one looks over the shoulder when talking about actions or plans, etc. It´s just sort of a given.

Anyway, there used to be several political squats in Reykjavik. One was victim to eviction, to which there was much protesting. The others have burned. I had assumed that the burnings were at the hands of police, but not so.

What happened before the financial crisis here was the typical buying up of properties by investors, with the intention of knocking down the houses to build larger buildings. However, a demolition permit is needed to do this, so the houses must sit for a couple of years to deteriorate enough to get the permit. It´s very wet here and without the heat being on, mushrooms and rot takes care of a home in a year or two.

However, the crisis made these developers bankrupt, and so the houses are just sitting and getting worse and worse, and they are quite an eyesore for neighbors. The few political squats left were burned by children using them to smoke inside of. A particular 13 year old boy in the area is blamed for intentionally setting fire to two of the squats.

Another thing that can happen is that developer will burn the house himself for the insurance money.

So the squat that I was in last night and will be staying in soon is very nice, and doesn´t seem to be in danger of any interference like this. Four young women live there and decorate it very eccentrically.

I haven´t been doing much except wandering around Reykjavik, and not even very far. Mostly the main street, which is Laudavegur. It is a town of hipsters. There are many expensive and extravagant shops (none that I can afford. I haven´t even been in any except the grocery store, Bonus, and a flea market). The people here dress well and are very lovely. Almost all look like models.

Sometimes I come across a place of interest, such as a church or a cemetery or sculpture garden. Tomorrow is Wednesday and that is the day that many museums are free, so I might visit some. I intend to get around to the other main sights as well, such as Perlan and the hot springs here in town.

I´ve been rather easily tired. Perhaps because of the antibiotics that I´m on? And all day today I had to walk with my pack plus an extra small bag, which is never much fun.

Some things that I´ve noticed that are different from Iceland:

1. No one looks before they cross the road. They just walk right on through and the cars stop. Personally, I have trouble breaking this habit, and it is a dead giveaway that I am a tourist to pause at intersections.

2. There are no drinking fountains. I don´t even think they know what one is.

3. A 'regular coffee' is an Americano. It is served in about a 6oz. portion with the option of cream and sugar. I have not seen any drip coffee (which is fine by me), even in people´s homes. In the homes of people who drink coffee, there is either instant, or they have a small espresso machine.

4. People do not start to party until 2am. This is the start of party time. People can be seen having beers at any time of day, but it is incredibly uncool to 'go out drinking' before 2am. And it is even more uncool to go home before 6 or 7am. Most bars don´t even open until 10pm, but beer can still be bought in café's and restaurants. Also, Friday and Saturday are the party nights. Starting around midnight, the main street is full of drunk people (who probably pregame at home because alcohol is very expensive. A cheap beer like Viking costs between 500-800kr). Although it is not legal to drink on the street, everyone does and there is no penalty. Most places that serve alcohol have a stack of plastic or paper cups by the door in case you want to take your drink to go. Despite this, there is always a lot of broken glass on the sidewalks and often there is puke. Icelanders complain bitterly about the high cost of beer (and liquor is even worse. Cocktails can be 1.500kr!) but they get very drunk on weekends and seem to overdo it. Fights are also common. I have yet to go out partying, and I probably won´t. I can´t seem to get used to going out at 2am.

5. My favorite difference is that almost every house is painted a beautiful, bright color. Since the weather here is unpredictable and often miserable, it´s a nice contrast.

6. Since food is expensive (going out to eat much would be impossible) I haven´t tried much on the Icelandic menu. In fact I´ve only gone out for Thai food, because some people wanted to take me. I have seen some of the traditional foods though. There was horsemeat and skate at the flea market, and Setta said that you can also buy the fermented shark there. I am curious but have no idea how to cook it. I have been enjoying the skyr, which is cheap in the grocery. Other than that I have been eating a lot of sandwiches.

7. There are no public phones. Well, there is one. It´s at the taxi cab station. And it costs 100kr! People are not too generous here with their things, either. Every time I have asked to use a phone, no one volunteers. Perhaps I´m spoiled living in the South.

8. And...unless I made a mistake, the public toilets here are not segregated by sex. It was kind of hard to tell. Oh well.

Anyway, this CouchSurfing host is named Gulla, and there is also a girl here from Sweden. I am staying on the floor of Gulla´s son´s room and he has a nice computer that I´m using. I probably won´t be able to update for some time after this.

Some photos have been posted on my Flickr, which is http://www.flickr.com/photos/pliabletrade/ or there is a link on the top of this page.

I can access the internet from the public library, but it costs 100kr for half an hour (not too bad, and definitely worth it) so I try to use that time to upload photos.